Ararat
The Sunday Age
Sunday June 13, 2004
WHY: A town where 19th-century Chinese diggers struck gold first has retained its significant heritage. Today, Ararat has something of interest for everyone.
DISTANCE FROM MELBOURNE: About 200 kilometres, one way.
TIME: If travelling direct to Ararat, it will take a little over two hours one way. With en-route attractions to visit, allow a full day for relaxed touring.
ROUTE: The Western Freeway provides easy and quick access to the far side of Ballarat and you'll continue on the undivided highway section through Beaufort and Buangor to Ararat. A short scenic detour for the return, if you have time, head east through Warrak and past Mount Buangor State Park then back to the highway at Buangor.
ON THE WAY: First port of call should be Beaufort, marked by its central bandstand. You could have morning tea here or a take quick a drive of the back streets - note the antiquated shops, and quaint signal box near the railway station. Further along the highway, at Buangor, is the bluestone Cobb & Co horse-changing station, a reminder of times when transport used less horsepower.
WHAT TO DO: In Ararat, if you have a sense for the macabre, head straight for J Ward, a former prison and institution for the criminally insane. On Sundays there are tours (5352 3357) every hour from 10 am and this is the best way to get an understanding of bare survival - and death - behind the jail's walls since the "open for business" shingle was hung in 1861.
When gold was discovered by a party of Chinese in 1857 it brought more than 20,000 diggers to the incredibly rich Canton Lead. At this rate it didn't take long for Ararat's shanty town to be established, and deep lead mining proved profitable over disparate decades. The Gum San Chinese Heritage Centre traces the journey of miners from southern China in the mid-1800s, their arrival at Robe in South Australia and the harsh, dangerous 500-kilometre overland trek to the diggings. Racial and social discrimination against the Chinese was rife in those frenetic days, and a poll tax of #20 was imposed on all "Celestials" entering the Victorian colony.
Those interested in historic architecture will find Ararat's streets remarkable. Don't miss Pyrenees House (part of the hospital) in Girdlestone Street, the Town Hall, Shire Hall, Court House, the mansion Dominica, and Aradale Mental Hospital - fear not, it is closed. Yet another museum worth a visit is Langi Morgala, which holds Ararat history and Aboriginal artefacts.
If the weather's fine, head for One Tree Hill lookout, where far-ranging views to the Grampians, Bendigo and surrounding ranges can be enjoyed. Several wineries are open for cellar-door sales and tastings, among them Montara (Port Fairy Road), Mount Langi Ghiran Vineyard, and a little further north-west, the famed Great Western district.
EATING AND DRINKING: In fine weather you can do no better than a picnic or barbecue at Alexandra Gardens. Designed by the famed Baron von Mueller, they're complete with lake and resident bird life, glasshouse with orchid display, and a playground. If touring J Ward, you can stay on for lunch or Devonshire tea in the cafeteria. Most of the other eateries are around Barkly Street, the hub of town, and you could try the Commercial Hotel, Vines, Kerry's Cafe, or McDonald's Bakery.
© 2004 The Sunday Age
